££££ • Vegetarian • Bristol
Plantuguese is in a central student district of Bristol. Given the name, I thought it would be more Mediterranean-tasting fare, yet it was a variety of flavourful foods mimicking typical mains. I ordered a glass of 'green wine' (on tap), and asked the wait staff to order for me. There were two staff for every patron, yet I believe several had just started learning. A basket of warm traditional bread, pão de água arrived drizzled in oil.
Bread is a comfort food; an energy source as old as time, and this one was saying, 'Relax, it's the end of the day. Enjoy me.'
Next to arrive were the 'Croquetes de Carne'. I am still laughing at this name because yes, they look like 'carne' - three small sausages staring up at me from the plate. However, the taste was wonderful, probably black bean curd and spices, a bit like a deep-fried haggis takeaway, or 'bon-bons de Carne'.
The 'Bitoque com Ovo Estrelado', grilled Lion's Mane with a vegan fried egg on top (very Argentine!) was the main, and mushrooms do seem to be Plantuguese's main protein base for the meals. I love my fungi, but I do believe each mushroom has its raison d'être if it is being used as a meat substitute. No, imo, Lion's Mane does not work well as a 'steak', Bitoque - for 'steak' and 'burger' alternates you definitely need a Portobello, perhaps a Chick of the Woods depending upon the size and cut. Lion's Mane is absolutely a 'pulled pork' proxy. They did get the Button mushrooms right for 'scallops' or 'scampi' alternates; a Cremini is nice for shellfish too.
Enoki is wonderful instead of a mince as well. But here we come to a common problem with vegan cooking: Why are we still planning meals around a Medieval piece of 'meat'? With a move to vegan eating comes conceptualising the meal around a flavour, a theme, a presentation; hopefully a younger generation gets this.
A warm layered sobremesa of custard tart and a rich expresso completed this food reflection in Caer Odor.
Reply
